Hey my friends! The Mila Paneled Midi and Maxi Skirt* just released at Ellie and Mac! During testing (and even in the tester call post) I saw people asking if there would be a zipper option. Since the pattern was intended to have an elastic waistband, we went through with the test that way, but I decided that it wouldn’t be a bad idea to show you how to add a zipper…so here we are! P.S. First things….this is a long read with lots of pics. I’m going to repeat that to remind you to hang in there. Second, I recommend that if you are adding a zipper, you choose a lightweight fabric that gathers well. I learned some lessons about stiff fabric and gathers in this process. Let me be an example for you.
My favorite style of zipper on skirts is an invisible zipper. It can make garments look so professional and nice, and allows for a clean finish. It is considered one of the “harder” zipper installations, but I believe anyone can do it with a little patience and practice. I hope my steps will guide you through adding an invisible zipper to your Mila (or whatever other skirt you’d like to once you have read this post). I’ll warn you, this post is a bit lengthy, so hang in there!
Pattern Prep
In order to add a zipper, you have an important consideration to make: do you want the zipper on the side seam or the center back? If you’re adding it to the side seam, decide if you will be comfortable sewing the zipper with 3/8″ seam allowance or if you should add more. I find 3/8″ to be perfectly fine for an invisible zipper, though industry standard is 5/8″. If preferred, add 1/4″ more to the pattern on the side seam you’ll be attaching the zipper to to equal that.
I, on the other hand, decided to add my zipper to the center back. I find this easiest to do when there are pockets (though you can still add the zip to a pocket seam, it’s just more complex). The Mila skirt does not have a center back seam, since it uses the same panel for the front and back, but this is an easy modification. For the back skirt, instead of cutting one on the fold, add your 3/8″ or 5/8″ seam allowance at the fold line side and cut two mirrored pieces.
Additionally, since the pattern is intended for elastic to fit into it, it means we need to create a waistband that fits plus gives us enough seam allowance to add the zipper. While many would say to measure your waist, I have learned that it’s always best to measure wherever on your body you actually want the skirt to sit. I love a high waist, but not everyone does, and this can make a big difference in where the skirt rests once sewn. Once you’ve decided where you want it to sit, add that measurement to your doubled seam allowance (ex. 27″ + 3/8″ + 3/8″=27.75”). Then decide the waistband finished height and double that + your doubled seam allowance. For a 2″ finished waistband height, this was my math: ( 2+2 + 3/8″ + 3/8″ =4.75”) For the invisible zipper, I used what I had on hand. I recommend a 10-12″ zipper so that you have the needed 8″ for opening, plus the extra 2 or more inches for easier sewing. You’ll understand why later.
Now that logistics are out the way, we are ready for the cutting + construction part of things. You will follow these steps from the pattern tutorial to make the skirt: panel seams, side seams*, pockets. Remember though, you will have a center back seam (or side seam will be used) for the zipper. *If you’re using the side seam as your zipper seam, you’ll just leave that side open until you get to the zipper steps.
This is one of those blogs that requires lots of photos and I imagine it’s easy to get lost. I have numbered photos in order to try and keep everything straightforward. Let’s begin!
1) In order to make the invisible zipper lie flatter for easier install, lightly press the coils so that the tape flattens. 2) Apply a 7″ x 1/2″ strip of interfacing to the Wrong side on the top of Skirt at the center back (or side) seam. Finish the raw edges of it with a a serger or zigzag stitch. 3) Cut your waistband using the formula provided above. You can add interfacing to it, if desired, but my fabric is pretty sturdy and stiff, so I skipped it. 4) Fold the bottom edge of your waistband 3/8″ to the wrong side and press. 5) Keep that edge pressed and fold the entire waistband in half with wrong sides together. 6) Open the waistband along the the middle crease and mark the center of the raw edge (not folded) with a pin or clip.
7) Mark the center front of your skirt with a marker or chalk, then sew two rows of basting stitches around the top of the waist for gathering. 8) Pin or clip the center of the skirt waist to match to the waistband and pull the bobbin threads to gather the waist of the skirt to match the width of the waistband. 9) Place Waistband and skirt right sides together at the pins, then add more in between, taking care to spread your gathers. This is very difficult with the stiff fabric I chose. Keep the 1/2″ from each edge free of gathers to make attaching the zipper easier. Sew this seam and then press the waistband seam allowance up. It should remain pressed up for the rest of construction.
10) Once you have sewn the waistband, it’s time to mark for the zipper. It’s recommended to have at least 8″ for opening. Since the waistband is 2″, I measured down 6″ from the seam and marked. With Right Sides Together, pin or clip down the center of the zipper seam. 11) To mark the zipper, you will need to align the plastic stop with the fold line of the waistband. Match the zipper to the seam until you meet the mark you made on the skirt in the previous step, then mark the zipper tape. 12) This just shows for clarity what I mean 13) Sew a basting stitch from the top of the waistband down to the zipper mark. Once you reach the zipper mark (which I’m showing in the photo), switch to a regular stitch length, backstitch, and sew to finish your skirt seam. 14) Press the seam allowance open flat. 15) Transfer the marking from the zipper teeth to your fabric so that you can see it while sewing.
16) If you have some on hand, washaway tape is a great way to secure the zipper temporarily. Place strips starting from the waistband crease down to the zipper mark. 17) Remove backing paper 18) Carefully lay your zipper down with the center of the zipper and skirt neatly aligned. Even if not using washaway tape, this is still how to place the zipper. Pin in place if not taping. 19) An additional recommended step is to hand baste the zipper tape into place. 20) Notice you are attaching to the seam allowance only in this step, not through to the outside of the skirt.
21) The best way to sew an invisible zipper is with an invisible zipper foot (pictured). 22) Remove the machine basted stitch from the waistband seam down to the zipper mark. Remember, you should have transitioned to a regular stitch length below this point. 23) Check from the right side that your waistband seam aligns neatly. 24) Unzip the zipper past the zipper mark. You will need to stick your finger underneath it to pull it that far down. 25) A tool such as this or tweezers may be helpful if you’re having a hard time. 26) Starting from the crease of the waistband, sew one side of the zipper down to your zipper mark and backstitch. The zipper teeth should lie neatly into the grooves of the foot. Use your fingers to keep the zipper unrolled while you sew, if needed. 27) Sew the other side of the zipper the same way. 28) Where the needle is down in the photo is where my zipper mark is. Notice that when we backstitch, we do not have to worry about the zipper pull being in the way and risk creating a bump or pucker in our seam. That’s why you use a longer zipper. 29) Your zipper is installed.
30) Zip zipper back up, making sure it can pass smoothly. If it catches any fabric, you may have sewn too close to the zipper and need to fix that part. 31) Verify again that the seams still align neatly. You can now remove your hand basting. 32) Trim the excess zipper if desired, and tack the ends of the zipper to the seam allowance of the skirt to help it stay in place.
We are onto the home stretch now! Let’s close the waistband! 33) Fold the top of the zipper tape back toward the seam allowance. 34) Keep the tape folded, then fold the top of the waistband down to cover the seam, making sure the original outer pressed edge of the waistband is still pressed. Pin in place. 35) Pin the remainder of the waistband in place, with the folded edge covering the seam. A little side note: you can flip the zipper tape to the outer edge and fold the edge of the waistband in photo 33 to the right side to sew and then flip it right side out. I thought about that after the fact, but had already sewn mine closed the way I photographed it.
36) I choose to hand sew the waistband edge closed and then stitch in the ditch along the waistband seam. You can sew, as illustrated by the yellow if you prefer to use your machine. 37) Stitch the waistband closed (either in the ditch or right above the seam).
Give your skirt a final press and she’s ready to wear!
This is the midi length Mila, made in African wax print from Zesty, Couture. My invisible zipper is from Wawak. Though you can only see a tiny peek of it in my side photo, I finished the hem of the skirt with purple bias tape using the same technique from my bias tape on curves post. I paired it with the Ellie and Mac Modern Juliet* in some black modal spandex that I picked up from Mily Mae Fabrics.
*Any links containing asterisks in this post are affiliate links. When you shop from them, I earn a tiny commission at no additional cost to you! Your support is much appreciated 🙏🏾
Discover more from Sincerely, Shantelle
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
No Comments