Theresa Skirt Maxi Mod

Hi, my friends! I can’t believe we are halfway through the year already and this is my first time writing up a new blog for you. To say life has been busy would be an understatement. Now that things have slowed down a little, I hope to write more. As usual, I will make no promises on the regularity of future posts…🫣

When is the last time you made something that just made your heart sing? For me, it was this maxi skirt! I received this stunning chiffon from Boho Fabrics, and one of the first things I envisioned with this large scale floral was a maxi skirt. In the way of drafting, skirts that aren’t fitted are pretty simple to create. It’s easy enough to start from the hip measurement, slash and spread to desired fullness, and go from there. I decided to use the Theresa Skirt from Ellie and Mac as my base so that I could easily teach you how to do it too!

You only need the waistband and the top tier (or you can use the lining) pattern pieces to recreate this. Just tape extra tracing paper underneath. I measured from where I want the finished skirt to sit, which is my high waist, and added 2″ to account for any extra cutting I will need to do to even out the hem (more on that later). I wanted this skirt as full as possible, so I followed the side seam out to 28″. I then measured 28″ from the fold line, and various points from the waist to mark my new hem. I used a French curve to help me draw in a neater hem. Because my pattern piece wouldn’t fit onto the fabric on the fold, I marked the midpoint of the skirt at the waist and hem, to create a line to make panels. I ended up with a center front and back that was cut on fold and two side panels each for front and back. Make sure to add seam allowance either to the pattern or to the fabric itself while cutting the fabric. Also, make sure to mark the adjoining seams of the panels and the side seams so that you don’t mix them up. Additionally, you can opt to remove some of the flair from the lining if you don’t want it as full. You would need to slash a couple times from the hem up to (but not through) the waist, then close the hem up some.

After you have cut and marked your pieces, you will place them right sides together at the seams, sew, press, and finish your raw edges. Do the same for the front and back panels, then place the front and back right sides together. Sew, press, and finish the raw edges. If lining, like I am, construct the lining the same way, but measure up 1.5 or 2″ shorter at the hem, so that the lining looks better at the end. Since I was using a sheet, I was able to cut the entire front and back on the fold, so I didn’t have to cut panels.

If you’re not here for the chiffon steps, you can just add the waistband, hang the skirt up for a day, then come back, trim (if needed), hem, and wear. If you are, you can continue on for what I did….

Chiffon is slippery and super hard to cut and keep perfect. I wanted my waistband to have the chiffon print but I wanted the stability of the cotton sheet. I chose to underline the chiffon with the cotton. I used washaway tape around the top and bottom edges of the waistband, then carefully laid the chiffon on top of it, pressing the edges in place.

I also opted to add in some ties for a design feature, so I cut four strips of chiffon that were about 14″ long and 2.5″ wide. In hindsight, I would have made them about 20″ so I could tie a bow. Construction was simple. Sew them right sides together, as shown, turn right side out and press. To put them into the waistband, I sewed the front and back right sides together, but only to the center seam the waistband. I slipped the ties into the opening, lining it up with the center seam. There should be at least 3/8″ of space underneath the ties so they don’t get caught in your waist seam when attaching to your skirt. Check this before sewing, and turn the strap and trim more off to make them thinner, if needed. I then sewed the rest of the waistband side seam, catching the ties.

Now was time to attach the waistband. If lining, insert the liner into the main skirt with the right side of the liner touching the wrong side of the main. Basically, you have the liner and main right side out and you’re just sliding the liner down into the main. I recommend basting around the waist to keep the layers together. If you added the ties, make sure that they are touching the right side of your front skirt when you go to attach it. Be mindful of the finished ends while sewing, so that you don’t catch them in your stitches. Make sure to leave your opening in the waistband for elastic, then close and finish the seam. I skipped the topstitching, but if you’d like to, stitch the front and back separately, since the ties won’t allow you to sew in the round.

Try on your skirt and admire how cute it is. The length was pretty good for me, but I noticed it wasn’t quite even. I hung it up overnight to see how much more the hem would drop, then I measured the spot I like the length the most, and carefully marked around the entire hem and trimmed it down. I ended up removing about 2″ at the longest areas (so glad I added 2″ extra earlier). This step is important for a maxi that’s cut with plenty of bias in it. After this, hem the lining and outer separately (if you lined).

And tada…your new maxi skirt is so pretty and ready to wear! I hope you’ll make one, too!

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