Tote bag patterns are everywhere and for good reason. They are a great, easy beginning sewing project for adults and kids alike. You can use lots of different fabrics to make them, including quilting together leftover scraps, upcycled clothing, or even old household linens. Many of these patterns are super simple and basic, which is great for the aforementioned reasons, but one thing I have noticed is that many of them don’t come with pockets. I know for me, in any bags I carry, a zipper pocket is a must. I need to know my keys won’t end up falling out somewhere haha. For today’s tutorial I will share with you how to add a zipper to any tote bag pattern you find! I am using the free Holoholo from The Styled Magnolia and African wax fabric from Zesty Couture. This pattern is reversible, so my pocket could be on the liner or the inner, depending on how I wear it. You can put this pocket wherever!
For materials, you will need an all purpose or bag zipper of your desired length, enough fabric for the pocket (I’ll explain in a sec), and fusible interfacing (if your fabric is light, it’s really good to help the pocket stay nice and sturdy). I can’t give exact dimensions, because this will vary depending on your bag. I can explain to you how to choose size, though!
For width, I chose based off of the zipper I wanted to use, which was 9″. I added 2″ to each side of the pocket for a width of 13″. For height, I determined how deep I wanted the pocket, then added 1.5″ that will be above the zipper, then doubled that number for a total of 20″ tall. I prefer not to have a seam in the bottom of my pocket, so this allows me to just fold the piece up and sew three ends, as opposed to four. If you’re working with scraps, however, you may need a seam. If so, measure depth, add 1.5″ above the zipper, then add seam allowance to the bottom and cut two pieces. I cut my piece at 13″ wide X 20″ tall.
Fusible interfacing is your friend in pretty much all zipper installs. It really helps to keep your pieces from warping, especially when you are sewing a zipper box, and helps the pocket stay sturdy with all the stuff you’ll put in it. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of your entire pocket piece. If your bag is not interfaced, apply interfacing as well to the wrong side of the piece you’re attaching the zipper to, at least 2″ tall with some excess on each side so it fully covers the zipper box.
- 1) 1.5″ from the top of your pocket, draw a 1″ tall rectangle, centered on your bag piece. The box should be the same length as your zipper from each end of the zipper stop not the zipper tape. My zipper is 9″, so my box was also 9″ long. I go with the standard 1″ zipper box, so the color of the zipper tape pops. If you prefer less tape to show, you can sew a less tall box.
- 2) Decide where you want the finished zipper to be. You can mark the position on the right side of your bag fabric, or simply pin once you’re happy. You will be sewing around the zipper box of the pocket.
- 3) Pin the pocket with right sides together to your bag piece in your chosen position. Sew around the box. Reduce your stitch length at the corners and pivot until you end up back where you started.
- 4) Carefully clip down the center of your welt box through both layers. Snip into the corners, getting as close as you can, making sure not to cut into your stitches. You will have little flappy V shapes on each end.
- 5) Pull all of your fabric through to the wrong side of the bag piece. Press very well so that it looks neat.
- 6) Position your zipper into the opening, on the wrong side. Consider the direction you like to open your bag at this step.
- 7) Carefully flip over the bag piece and make sure your zipper is nice and centered. You can pin or apply some washaway wonder tape to the zipper edges if desired. Stitch around the outside of the zipper box to secure the zipper.
- 8) Fold the bottom of the pocket up to meet the top edge. If you have two pieces, this would be where you place the second piece onto the first with right sides together.
- 9) Sew around the top and sides of the pocket. If you have two pieces, sew across the bottom, as well.
- 10) This is to show how the Zipper looks like once complete when open.
- 11) …and when closed.
Finish all the remaining steps to finish up your tote bag!
